Eating In And Around SF: Foodie Adventures

Gastronomie in the San Francisco Bay Area and beyond.

Tuesday, February 22, 2005

Cafe Beaujolais in Mendocino, CA

For our second evening's dinner in Mendocino, MH and I chose Cafe Beaujolais, another local favorite that closes for the winter. Luckily for us, by the time we got to the area, they had reopened for the spring. Cafe Beaujolais is located on Ukiah Street in an 1893 Victorian farmhouse. There is a lovely garden on the side of the restaurant, with tiny meandering paths. Another small building, called the Brickery, is where bread is baked fresh daily, supplying the restaurant, and selling to anyone savvy enough to stop by.

MH and I had made our reservations well in advance, and we're very glad we did. The restaurant turned away a number of people while we were there. Dinner is the only meal that is served, and it's a doozy. The restaurant clearly wants - no expects - you to linger over the crusty bread, shared appetizers, enormous main courses, dessert, and of course, lots and lots of wine.

There is not much to the decor. Upon entry, there is a simple waiting foyer with a long wooden bench and a coat rack. The interior of the restaurant is very utilitarian, but romantic; small, wooden tables and chairs nestled together with tiny votives on each table. The old wooden floor lies bare. Most parties were groups of two or three people; the restaurant really cannot accommodate groups much larger than four. It seemed as if most of the people there were locals. Many of the women were dressed in knit-wear, which is the norm that far up the coast. No one truly looked "urban," and no one talked terribly loudly. I felt as if I were in the jewel of this tiny town.

MH and I first split a salad of mixed garden greens, which came with baked marinated goat cheese and Niman Ranch bacon. We got the bacon on the side, where it would not detract from the slightly peppery taste of the greens. The presentation of both our main courses was similar; although MH got steak, and I got fish, both were served in a huge round dish over white beans, carrots, and kasha in a delightful mix. It was also rustic, and very filling. I did feel that although the food was excellent, it was very provincial.

Service was superior. The waitstaff was attentive, but not obtrusive. Cafe Beaujolais clearly prides itself on being a top-notch restaurant in an otherwise sleepy town. I only wish the food had measured up.


Cafe Beaujolais
7/10

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